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Measure Your Sit Bone Width: Find the Right Saddle Width

Sigi · · 12 min read

Sitzknochenabstand messen: Die richtige Sattelbreite finden - Alpensattel.de

What you need

  • Corrugated cardboard, about 30 x 30 cm
  • Hard chair or stair step
  • Ruler or tape measure
  • Pen

Step by step

  1. 1
    Prepare material

    You need a piece of corrugated cardboard of about 30 by 30 cm, a hard chair or a stair step, a ruler and a pen. Place the cardboard on the seat with the corrugated side facing up. No sofa, no upholstered chair – the surface has to be hard so the cardboard shows the impressions. Wear thin trousers without thick seams on the seat, because any seam distorts the impression by several millimetres.

  2. 2
    Sit upright on the corrugated cardboard

    Sit down on the cardboard with your full weight. Your feet are flat on the floor, your knees at a right angle, your back straight and upright. No hunched back, no hollow back – both tilt the pelvis and shift the sit bones relative to each other. Always measure upright: your riding position on the bike is only factored in later via the size chart.

  3. 3
    Sit still for 30 seconds and shift your weight

    Sit still for 30 seconds and don't wobble back and forth, otherwise the impressions become blurry. Pull yourself down with your hands on the seat or lift your feet briefly – this puts your full weight on the sit bones and makes the impression clear. Then stand up slowly.

  4. 4
    Mark the centre points and measure

    You can see two clear impressions in the cardboard. Mark the centre of each impression with a pen and use the ruler to measure the distance between the two points – not between the edges. This value in centimetres is your sit bone distance. To be safe, measure a second time: if the result differs by more than 0.5 cm, repeat the measurement.

  5. 5
    Derive saddle width

    The saddle width follows from your sit bone distance: 9 to 10 cm needs 130 to 140 mm, 11 to 12 cm needs 143 to 155 mm, 13 to 14 cm needs 155 to 165 mm, from 15 cm at least 165 mm. Within the range, this applies: if you sit upright, take the upper value; if you ride in a sporty, bent-over position, take the lower one.

Does your bike saddle hurt, go numb, and leave you aching after every ride? In most cases the saddle itself isn't the problem – it's that the saddle width doesn't match your body. The deciding value: your sit-bone width. If you know it, you buy the right saddle. If you don't, you're guessing – and losing.

Here you'll learn how to measure your sit-bone width at home in five minutes, how to work out the right saddle size, and which saddle width fits your result.

Why sit-bone width matters so much

Your pelvis has two bony protrusions at the very bottom – the so-called sit bones (medically: ischial tuberosities). When you sit on a chair, you feel them as hard points under your backside. These two bones are exactly what should rest on the bike saddle and carry your weight.

The problem: the distance between the sit bones is different for everyone. In men it is typically between 10 and 14 cm, in women often between 11 and 16 cm. A saddle that works perfectly for your neighbour can be a source of pain for you – because their sit bones simply sit differently from yours.

If the saddle is too narrow, your sit bones don't land on the seat surface but beside it. Your entire body weight then presses on the soft tissue in the perineal area – on nerves, blood vessels and sensitive structures. The result: numbness, tingling and pressure pain that get worse with every minute.

If the saddle is too wide, the insides of your thighs chafe against the saddle edges with every pedal stroke. You notice this especially on longer rides – and it doesn't get better over time, it gets worse.

The connection is simple: your sit-bone width determines how wide your saddle needs to be. Your riding position determines how much you add to that value. Even so, most people buy their saddle based on looks, price or "it looks comfortable" – without ever having their saddle measured or measuring themselves.

Measuring sit-bone width – 3 methods

You don't need special tools or an appointment. The first method works with material you probably have at home.

Method 1: Corrugated cardboard (main method, 5 minutes)

This is the most common method and is perfectly sufficient for most people to measure their sit-bone width.

What you need: A piece of corrugated cardboard (approx. 30 × 30 cm, for example from a box), a hard chair or bench, a ruler or tape measure and a pen.

How to do it:

  1. Place the cardboard with the corrugated side up on a hard, level surface – a wooden bench, a wooden chair or a stair step. No sofa, no upholstered chair. Wear thin trousers without thick seams on the seat, because every seam distorts the imprint by several millimetres.
  2. Sit down on the cardboard with your full weight. Feet flat on the floor, knees at a right angle, back straight and upright. No hunched back, no hollow back – both tilt the pelvis and shift the sit bones relative to each other.
  3. Stay seated still for 30 seconds and don't wiggle back and forth. Pull yourself down onto the seat with your hands or lift your feet briefly – this puts your full weight on the sit bones.
  4. Stand up slowly and look at the cardboard. You will see two distinct impressions – those are your sit bones. In some people they are clearly visible round dents, in others more oval depressions.
  5. Mark the centre of each impression with a pen and measure the distance between the two points – not between the edges. That is your sit-bone width.

Tip: If the impressions aren't distinct enough, put a second piece of cardboard under the first and sit down more firmly. If the imprints stay unclear, use method 2 with aluminium foil.

To be safe, measure twice and take the average. For most people the sit-bone width is between 9 and 16 cm.

Method 2: Aluminium foil (if the impressions stay unclear)

The principle is identical – but aluminium foil shows the impressions more clearly than corrugated cardboard. This method is especially suitable if you can't make out clear impressions with the cardboard method.

How to do it:

  1. Fold a piece of aluminium foil twice so that it is four layers thick (approx. 30 × 30 cm).
  2. Place the foil on a hard surface – ideally on a wooden board or a stair step.
  3. Sit on it exactly as in the cardboard method: upright, feet flat on the floor, knees at a right angle, sitting still for 30 seconds.
  4. The foil deforms permanently. You see two clear hollows whose centres you can simply measure.

The advantage: aluminium foil is unforgiving – every pressure point stays visible. This makes the centres easier to read if the cardboard doesn't give a clear picture. The measured value itself stays the same.

Method 3: Have it measured at a bike shop

Many bike shops offer professional sit-bone measurement. You sit on a special pressure-sensing mat or a gel cushion that digitally records the exact distance and the pressure distribution.

When is it worth it?

  • If you still have discomfort despite measuring yourself and having a suitable saddle.
  • If you ride road or mountain bikes ambitiously and every millimetre counts.
  • If you're having a complete bike-fitting analysis done – saddle measurement is usually included there.

For the vast majority of cyclists, the home methods are entirely sufficient. The corrugated-cardboard method delivers results with an accuracy of about ± 5 mm – and that's enough to determine the saddle width and the right size.

Bike saddle size chart – reading your result correctly

Have you measured your sit-bone width? Then you can now read from the table which saddle width suits you. Note: the recommended saddle width is always slightly larger than your sit-bone width, because your sit bones shouldn't rest right at the edge of the saddle but in the middle of the seat surface.

Sit-bone width (cm) Recommended saddle width (mm) Upright riding position Sporty riding position Recommended model
9–10 cm 130–140 mm 140 mm 130 mm Alpensattel 3.0 Race+
11–12 cm 143–155 mm 155 mm 143 mm Alpensattel 3.0 Sport+
13–14 cm 155–165 mm 165 mm 155 mm Alpensattel 3.0 Komfort+ or Sport+
15+ cm 165+ mm 170+ mm 165 mm Alpensattel 3.0 Komfort+

Note: Women anatomically have a wider pelvis than men – on average a woman's sit-bone width is 1 to 3 cm greater. That is why women more often choose wider saddles. If you're a woman looking for a suitable saddle, take a look at our bike saddles for women. For men, you'll find the suitable models in our bike saddles for men collection.

Our bike saddles at a glance cover sit-bone widths from 9 to over 15 cm – so you'll find the right width for every measurement.

Sit-bone width in centimetres – which saddle width fits?

The most common question after measuring is about the concrete value. Here is the answer for each measurement individually.

Sit-bone width 10 cm – which saddle width?

For a sit-bone width of 10 cm, a saddle width of 130 to 140 mm fits. In a sporty, forward-leaning position 130 mm is enough, because the pelvis tilts forward and the sit bones rest closer together. If you sit upright, take 140 mm. Suitable model: Alpensattel 3.0 Race+.

Sit-bone width 11 cm – which saddle width?

For a sit-bone width of 11 cm, the suitable saddle width is between 143 and 155 mm. Upright on a city bike or e-bike, 155 mm is right; leaning sportily forward, 143 mm. Suitable model: Alpensattel 3.0 Sport+.

Sit-bone width 12 cm – which saddle width?

12 cm is the most common sit-bone width in men. A saddle width of 143 to 155 mm is suitable – 155 mm in an upright position, 143 mm in a sporty one. Suitable model: Alpensattel 3.0 Sport+.

Sit-bone width 13 cm – which saddle width?

For a sit-bone width of 13 cm you need a saddle width of 155 to 165 mm. Sitting upright, 165 mm is right; sporty, 155 mm. Suitable models: Alpensattel 3.0 Komfort+ or Sport+.

Sit-bone width 14 cm – which saddle width?

A sit-bone width of 14 cm calls for a saddle width of 155 to 165 mm. This value is more common in women than in men, because the pelvis is built wider. Upright 165 mm, sporty 155 mm. Suitable model: Alpensattel 3.0 Komfort+.

Sit-bone width 15 cm and more – which saddle width?

From a sit-bone width of 15 cm you need a saddle width of at least 165 mm, when sitting upright rather 170 mm. A saddle that is too narrow presses directly on soft tissue instead of bone here – the most common cause of numbness. You'll find wider models in the Women's Bike Saddle Test 2026.

The measured width is only half the battle: a suitable saddle at the wrong height or tilt hurts just the same. How to adjust both is explained in How to adjust your bike saddle correctly.

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Consider your riding position – why it affects saddle width

Your sit bone distance alone isn't enough to determine the perfect saddle width. The second crucial factor is your riding position on the bike.

The reason is purely mechanical: The more upright you sit, the more your hip bones tilt backward – and the wider your sit bones spread apart on the saddle surface. The further you lean forward, the more your pelvis tilts forward – and your sit bones come closer together.

Upright riding position (city bike, e-bike, Dutch bike): Your torso is almost vertical. Almost your entire body weight rests on the saddle, distributed across your sit bones. You need a wider saddle with a large contact area. Add about 3 cm to your measured sit bone distance.

Sporty-moderate riding position (trekking, MTB, gravel): Your torso is tilted forward by 30 to 45 degrees. Weight is distributed across three points: saddle, handlebars, and pedals. The sit bones carry less load but are also positioned closer together. Add about 2 cm to your measurement.

Road bike position (highly leaned forward): Your torso is flat, with a large portion of your weight on your hands and pedals. Your pelvis is tilted significantly forward, and your sit bones are close together. A narrow saddle is not just acceptable here, but necessary – a wider saddle would chafe your inner thighs with every pedal stroke. Add only about 1.5 cm to your measurement.

When you look at the bicycle saddle test 2026 individual models, you see this exact logic: Each saddle type is optimized for a specific riding position.

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The 4 most common mistakes when buying a saddle

A new saddle is quickly ordered – but just as quickly regretted if it doesn’t fit. We keep seeing these four mistakes.

Mistake 1: “Soft = comfortable”

This is the most common misconception. A soft, thick pad feels pleasant in the first five minutes – but then you sink deep with your sit bones, and the surrounding padding material presses against your sensitive soft tissue from the sides. The pressure doesn’t distribute better, but worse. After 30 minutes, you’ll have more pain than on an apparently “hard” saddle with the correct width. A good saddle is firm enough that your sit bones rest on top – and supports them precisely there.

Mistake 2: Saddle chosen too wide

More surface area sounds logical – but is counterproductive if you don’t sit upright. A saddle that is too wide presses against the inside of your thighs with every pedal stroke. This leads to chafing, skin irritation, and an uncomfortable feeling with every pedal stroke. Especially touring and road cyclists often choose a saddle that is too wide because they confuse comfort with width.

Mistake 3: Saddle chosen too narrow

The opposite is just as problematic. If the saddle is too narrow, your sit bones don’t find any support on the seating surface. Instead, they slide off to the sides, and your entire weight rests on the perineum – the most sensitive part of your anatomy. The result: numbness, tingling, pressure pain. In men, this can even affect blood circulation in the genital area in the long term.

Mistake 4: Never measuring sit bone distance

This is the root of all other mistakes. Without knowing your sit bone distance, every saddle purchase is a guessing game. Whoever never measures their saddle and doesn’t determine the saddle width buys blindly. You can buy the most expensive model – if the width is wrong, even the best material won’t help. Measuring your sit bone distance for five minutes saves you weeks with a wrong saddle.

You now know your sit bone distance and which saddle width suits you. Now you just need the right saddle. Take a look at our Bicycle Saddles Overview – every model is categorized by riding position and saddle width, so you can directly find what matches your measurement result.

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The right saddle makes the differenceEven with perfect mounting, the wrong saddle leads to pressure, numbness or poor posture. Three models, three riding positions.
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Relaxed, uprightE-bike, city bike → Komfort PRO

Frequently asked questions

How wide should a bicycle saddle be?

The right saddle width depends on two factors: your sit bone width and your riding position. As a rule of thumb: sit bone width plus 2 to 3 cm gives the suitable saddle width for upright riding. For a sporty posture, you add a little less (1.5 to 2 cm). A bike saddle for an upright position should typically be 150 to 170 mm wide, for sporty positions 130 to 155 mm. You can find the exact assignment in the size chart above.

Can I measure my sit bone width without corrugated cardboard?

Yes. Aluminium foil folded four times on a hard surface gives the same imprint, with a tolerance of about ± 0.5 cm. Fine sand, a sheet of paper on a soft foam mat or a yoga mat with a sheet of paper on top also work. That's enough for a first guide value; before buying a saddle, corrugated cardboard is more accurate.

Do you measure the distance between the centres or the edges?

Between the centres. The dents in the cardboard are two to three centimetres wide – if you measure from edge to edge, you can be up to 2 cm off depending on the edge you choose, and therefore a whole saddle size too wide or too narrow. So mark the centres with a pen before you put the ruler on.

Is the distance between the sitting bones different for women than for men?

Yes. The female pelvis is on average wider than the male pelvis – an anatomical adaptation related to childbirth. The distance between the sit bones in women is typically 1 to 3 cm greater than in men. This means: women generally need wider saddles. However, there are large individual differences – some women have a narrow sit bone distance, some men have a wide one. That’s why measuring is always better than generalizing.

Can the distance between the sit bones change?

The bone spacing itself hardly changes in adulthood. Your bones are where they are. What can change is the amount of soft tissue over the sit bones – due to weight gain or loss. This slightly affects the measurement, but not the actual bone spacing. If you have gained or lost a lot of weight (more than 10 kg), it may be worth measuring again. Otherwise, your value remains stable for years.

What should I do if I am between two sizes?

If your measurement falls exactly between two saddle widths – for example, 12.5 cm – base your choice on your riding position. If you ride more upright, choose the wider saddle. If you ride more sportily, go for the narrower one. When in doubt, the slightly wider saddle is the safer choice: your sit bones will definitely have enough support area. A saddle only becomes too wide if it noticeably rubs against the inner thighs.

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